France is synonymous with great cuisine. It’s one of the things travelers often look forward to most when visiting. But with thousands of bistros and cafés to choose from, getting a good meal can sometimes be a crap-shoot for travelers who aren’t already in the know. Every menu on the street can easily start to look the same. I can’t count the number of times I found myself choosing a restaurant based on its décor or on the view from the terrace, rather than any true appreciation of what the food might be like. Sometimes I had incredible meals. Other times … well, did I mention the restaurant was pretty?
On my last visit, however, a Parisian tour guide finally shared four key tips for maximizing the chances of getting a good meal, even in the most touristy of areas.
1. Look for fait maison
Despite a reputation as a world-gastronomic powerhouse, mid-range restaurants in France have also had a reputation for cutting corners, particularly in popular tourist areas. To combat this, the French government passed a law in 2014 creating an icon that restaurant could display to prove their food was fait maison – or homemade – rather than reheated, pre-made, or factory-produced. In fact, to qualify for the logo, the meals must be made on site, using “raw” ingredients. The move has not been without controversy, though, due to some notable loopholes. Salt-preserved foods or marinades may not qualify, but meals that use frozen base ingredients may, as long as they were frozen raw. Many high-end restaurateurs have rejected the idea of using the symbols, but they aren’t really the ones the logo was designed for. Criticisms aside, at least it’s a place to start for those who haven’t yet found their own favorite little bistro. Keeping an eye out for the fait maison icon can be a great first step in ensuring that your host is using fresh (mostly) ingredients. The icon resembles a sauce pan topped with a roof and chimney. A prominently posted logo indicates everything is fait maison, while restaurants may also place the icon next to those particular plates that qualify. Before I had learned this little fact, I was completely blind to the logo. Now that I’m in the know, I see it everywhere.
2. Go for smaller menus
The first thing English speakers should understand is that “menu” does not mean the same thing in French. If you’re looking for a list of all things the restaurant serves, that’s a carte – as in a al carte, or off the menu. In French, the word menu indicates a complete, multi-course meal for a fixed price. A typical 3-course menu will include an appetizer, a main dish, and a desert. You often can choose among two or three options for each course, but choices are limited. And that’s a great thing for quality! If everyone is eating the same few dishes, you can bet all the ingredients are getting used, with little needing to be kept beyond that day. But if everyone in the restaurant is ordering something different, the food is likely in the freezer, a can, or some other long-term storage. When it comes to ensuring fresh, quality food in a small eatery, less is definitely more.
3. Are there people outside smoking?
Like many countries, France now has rules against smoking inside restaurants. These restrictions, however, do not extend to tables on the terrace or the sidewalk. And while the numbers of smokers in many Western countries is declining quickly, smoking is still quite common among the French. This can help foreigners identify the places that are popular with the locals.
4. Stop by a market before you choose
Even in the big cities, produce markets are everywhere. One of the best ways know what’s fresh in the restaurants is to understand what is in season. Even if you have no plan to buy anything, open-air French markets are a wonderful way to spend some time exploring and chatting with the locals. Take note of the things you would be buying if you had your own fridge to stock. When you head to the restaurant, look for dishes with those same ingredients. Bon appetite!