The name “Talofofo Falls Park” evokes imagery of an exotic tropical cascade, like something out of Jurassic Park. After leaving the main road along the eastern coast of the island, the drive through the long, winding, lane leading to the park is filled with dense green foliage dotted with colorful tropical flowers. This is rural Guam. Rounding the final bend and emerging from the forest is … an old, run-down amusement park gate shaped like a castle, with stray dogs and pigs wandering through a derelict parking lot. I actually laughed out loud at the how all of my expectations were shattered. I consciously decided in that moment, “Well damn. Now this, I’ve got to see!”
After paying the surprisingly high entrance fare and passing through the “castle” the first introduction to the park reminded me of an old, dilapidated traveling carnival form a 1970’s horror movie. It was so bad, it was awesome! I couldn’t get enough of it. There was an empty tea cup ride, a kiddie choo-choo train that looks like it couldn’t move an inch, and some sad bumper cars abandoned in a corner. Now, don’t get me wrong, if there had been a group of kids laughing and giggling on the rides, it would have had a very different feel, but on a random Tuesday afternoon, I had the entire eerie place all to myself.
Immediately, however, the Hafa Adai spirit of Guam exploded over the scene when one of the staff members came around a corner and welcomed me brightly to the park. With an eager, proud grin he guided me over to the gondola, put me into the cab, and set the gears into motion. Soon, the car lifted off the deck and floated high above a jungle-covered river valley. This is more like what I’d envisioned. The short ride over the canopy ends about 100 meters down the river at the foot of the long-heralded falls. Now, face-to-face with the falls, I could see why people come to visit. While not massive, they are nonetheless pretty. The soft chirp of birds, the sounds of falling water, and the shade of the forest gave the grounds a peaceful feeling, made even more Zen-like by the Buddhist prayer grottoes scattered around the area.
For a bit more irreverent experience, anyone over age 19 is invited to wander Love Land, the quirky “erotic” sculpture garden with statutes in all their natural glory. On a more serious side, however, there is also a small museum of Guam’s history from its aboriginal beginnings through the Japanese invasion of World War II, all depicted in papier-mâché dioramas. While rudimentary, they are nonetheless informative, and it was one of the few times I’d seen a real discussion of Guam’s turbulent history from the Chamorro perspective.
Leaving the museum, there are some signs for “Yokoi’s Cave.” The winding path has dense
foliage that blocks out the sun and noise, making it one of the prettiest parts of the entire park. At the end of the walk, is a small display describing the amazing experience of a Japanese Solider named Soichi Yokoi. During World War II, Yokoi hid in this remote central valley as the American troops began their liberation of Gaum. Amazingly, that “escape” into the forest stretched on for 28 years before Yokio was finally discovered. He had no idea that the war had ended and was eventually repatriated to Japan, where he received a hero’s welcome. The cave is still there and you can view the bamboo hatch and opening leading to his underground lair, but given its small size and its potential instability, it’s fenced off. You can get some perspective from a wood carving nearby that illustrates the cave’s configuration, allowing visitors to contemplate the reality of the man’s experience and isolation in the lovely valley.
For those with a sense of humor and an appreciation of eclectic experiences, Talofofo Falls can be a destination in and of itself. Otherwise, if you’re on the southeastern side of the island, it’s a worthwhile stop for an hour or two.
Getting there: Driving from Hagåtña, take route 4 south about 30 minutes. Keep an eye out for signs for the falls that will eventually indicate where to turn. It’s another 5 minutes along the road inland before you arrive at the falls.
Admission: $12 for adults