Stepping through the sliding glass door that separates the heat and humidity of the early Italian autumn from the dank underground grottos beneath the Vatican, we knew that we were in for what would be the coolest experience – both literally and metaphorically – we could have in the Vatican. Whether you are religious or not, a visit to the city of the dead below St. Peter’s Basilica is moving, thought provoking, and illuminating.
Vatican City takes its name from the Vatican Hill, which had been the site of the cemetery just outside of ancient Rome. A literal city of the dead, the necropolis was a park-like warren of mausoleums and burial sites where ancient people came to visit their ancestors. It is here where St. Peter, the first Pope, was buried after he was crucified upside-down by the Romans in the year 64. Today, nearly two millennia later, an entire country sits on top of this ancient burial ground. The Vatican has conducted extensive excavations (scavi in Italian) of the area, and experts have even identified the tomb of St. Peter himself, which is undoubtedly the highlight of the tour.
Though I was raised Catholic, I am not a religious person. My interest in seeing this part of the Vatican was driven by my love of history and archeology, not because I had any desire for a divine connection. And for the most part, the guide focused on the historical context of the site as we explore the Roman ruins and wound our way through the evolution of antiquity. Yet, when standing before the tomb of St. Peter, I can’t deny the power and emotion of that experience. There I was, just meters from the humble brick tomb that likely contains the remains of one of the most influential and revered humans in history. Even for an agnostic like me, it was an emotional experience.
Making It Happen
Access to the necropolis is strictly controlled and only available through pre-arranged tours. To reserve your spot, visit the Scavi Office’s online request form or send a request via email (scavi@fsp.va) or fax (+39 06 69873017) detailing:
the exact number of participants;
names of each participant;
the tour language you want;
your e-mail address, or fax number, or a complete postal address where your confirmation can be sent;
and the possible dates you are available for the tour, using the full name of the month (for example, from 01 January 2019 to 08 January 2019).
If there is availability on any of the days you requested, the Scavi Office will assign you a tour time; you are not able to choose the hour yourself. Your confirmation email will include instruction about where to meet, but since it is a bit hard to figure out, we’ve included this map.
Keep in mind that no one under age 15 is allowed on the tour and those who have mobility concerns or are afraid of tight spaces may find it difficult. No photography is allowed. Each tour lasts about an hour and a half and is led by a Vatican guide. As an added bonus, it ends inside of St. Peter’s Basilica, allowing you to skip the public line and continue your visit without interruption.