Endless sunshine, miles of beaches, beguiling mountain villages, imposing Moorish fortresses, colorful architecture, and millennia of art and history make Spain — specifically Andalucía — the perfect choice for your next European adventure. The seduction of southern Spain is echoed in in the music and dance of flamenco or the bravado and passion of the area’s toreadors. Whatever you are seeking, Andalucía will provide. Given its climate along the Mediterranean coast, the region is also a fantastic place to visit in the off-season, when prices are down but the weather is still good. When we did this itinerary, we went in February and had constant sunshine with temperatures ranging from 50 and 75 degrees, Fahrenheit.
If we’ve sparked your interest, we’ve created an itinerary to inspire your wanderlust. Whether you follow it exactly or use it to inspire your own explorations, you can’t go wrong with this tour through Southern Spain.
Choosing a Base Camp
The best way to explore Andalucía is setting up a home base for the bulk of your trip. Much of the region is easily accessible by car, making day trips easy, while allowing you to settle into a place where you can unpack and feel comfortable. The best option is most likely the Costa del Sol south of Malaga, with its countless beach communities including Marbella, with its yachts and posh shopping and Estepona, the still off-the-radar village full of traditional charm. However, if you decide to base yourself in Malaga, Sevilla, Cadiz, or Tarifa (which are all also viable options) this itinerary can still give you some great ideas of what to do and how long you might need to see the area. While hotels are always a plausible option we recommend AirBnB rentals for both comfort and value. The average cost for a private AirBnB apartment in Marbella at the time of writing was $128, which was significantly less than hotels in that area. If you want to know more about using AirBnb and how to make the most of your stay, check out my earlier post.
Day 1 — Arrival in Andalucía
After landing at the airport in Malaga, pick up your rental car head to your apartment or hotel to settle in. The first day after red-eye flight from the U.S. is the perfect day to take it slow. Explore your local neighborhood and pick up some provisions (such as coffee, milk, cereal, beer and wine, etc.) that you’ll want to have available each day. Whether it’s coffee and pastries for breakfast or bottles of wine to relax with on your balcony after day of exploring, having daily comforts at your new home often save money in the long run.
Day 2 —Explore Malaga
Once the region’s ugly duckling, Malaga had a reputation as a gritty industrial port. Like a struggling artist, the city may not have been very polished, but it was always full of life, culture, and creative expression. In recent years, Malaga has reinvented itself as an urban gem that still has a very Spanish feel, while some parts of the Costa del Sol can sometimes can feel like there are as many Brits or Germans as there are locals.
Malaga is worth an entire day, if not more. The city is dominated by the Alcazaba, an 11th century hill-side fortress built by the Moors when they controlled this part of Spain. It is a fantastic example of Moorish architecture and houses several gardens, palace rooms, and fountains for your to explore. The fortress is built over the ruins of an older Roman construction. Part of a Roman amphitheater, which wasn’t discovered until 1951, has been excavated just outside the walls of the Alcazaba, creating and anachronistic, though albeit somehow synchronistic, aesthetic. Above the Alcazaba, higher up the hill, are the ruins of the Gibralfaro Castle, a 14th century fortress that’s not as well preserved, but offers dynamic views of the city and port. Dual tickets for both sites can be purchased through the ticket booths outside the Alcazaba.
Nearby, the Cathedral of Malaga, which took over 150 years to build, and the adjoining Iglesia del Sagrano are quiet and beautiful places to explore and relax outside of the Spanish sun. Each is built on the ruins of former mosques, a testament to the tumultuous religious strife of medieval Spain.
Not far from these sites, you’ll find that Museo Picasso Málaga. Perhaps Spain’s greatest artistic son, Pablo Picasso was born and grew up in Malaga. This museum, which houses nearly 300 of his pieces is housed in an a Renaissance-style mansion known as the Palacio de Buenavista. Aside paintings, sculptures, and other works of art that span the breadth of Picasso’s career, the building itself is full of history. Archeological explorations have uncovered exceptional Phoenician, Roman, and Moorish foundations that combine with the Renaissance history of the palace to create a time capsule giving visitors glimpses of Malaga’s history, dating back to the 7th century B.C.E.
When you’ve had your fill of history and culture, head to the Calle Marques de Larios, a major pedestrian-only shopping thoroughfare. Mercado de Atazaranas, which is located a few blocks west of the Called Marques de Larios, is municipal market built into what was once a Moorish naval workshop and which retains many highlights of the old architecture. Or walk along the port-front, where you’ll find a large park lined with orange trees that makes a nice place to rest and watch people go by.
Day 3 — Ronda and the Pueblos Blancos
Inland, to the west of the Costa del Sol, lies the Serranía de Ronda Mountains. These mountains are dotted with charming white-washed villages that are collectively known as Los Pueblos Blancos (the White Villages). Many of these villages date back to Moorish rule, when Berbers, always weary of the Catholic forces to the north, chose high and easily defendable perches in the mountains to set up base. For a great circular route to into the mountains, follow route A-7 along the coast southwest past Estepona. About 12 miles past Estepona, take route A-377 inland toward Casares/Gaucin. The road begins to wind up into the mountains past small charming towns and giant windmill generators. The first of the pueblos blancos you come to is the village of Gaucin. Like most of these mountain villages, Gaucin is a maze of winding roads and charming gleaming white buildings. The town is topped by the Castillo del Aguila, or “Eagle’s Castle,” at small fortified tower on a rock ledge overlooking the town. The tower has its origins dating back to an ancient Roman fortification. Either from the tower, or virtually any place in town, you get stunning vistas overlooking the valley and rolling back toward Gibraltar. After stop to appreciate the pueblo’s beauty and grab a snack, you’ll likely want to continue along the steep and winding route A-369 to the crown jewel of the pueblos blancos: Ronda.
The most-visited and well-known of the white villages, Ronda is split in two by a deep gorge cut by the Guadalevín River. The town’s main road crosses the gorge at the “New Bridge,” which was completed in 1793 and was the architectural and engineering feet of its time. The bridge houses a small museum inside its arches, which recounts how the interior of the structure has been everything from a hotel to a prison. There are great views from inside, looking down 100 meters to the river below.
Ronda is one of the oldest cities in Spain and one of the last Moorish strongholds to fall to the Catholic re-conquest. The birthplace of modern bullfighting, Ronda has Spain’s oldest bull ring, which is a prominent fixture in the town. The Museo Taurinos bullfighting museum is housed inside the complex. If the pageantry bullfighting is not your speed, there are two “palaces” worth a visit in Ronda. The Palacio de Mondragón is a 14th-century home that played host to both the Moorish King Abomelic and the Spanish monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella. While the small museum has some nice artifacts, the real gem is the gardens and patio overlooking the gorge. Nearby Casa del Rey Moro is not open to the public, but the gardens and patio are, as is an underground stairwell called “la Mina” (the mine) that leads through the bedrock down to the river below. This stairwell ensured that the city was never without fresh water, even when sieged by invading armies. Remember, if you decide to take the 300-plus steps down to the bottom of the ravine, those same steps are the only way back up.
A visit to Ronda doesn’t require more than half a day, though it would be easy to spend an entire day, or two, soaking up the slow pace and relaxed atmosphere of the area. For lunch with the best view in town, try the Casa Santa Pola, which consists of three levels of terraces built into the cliff-face of the gorge. Once you’ve had your fill of Ronda, you can drive the winding A-397, which hugs precariously to the mountainside, back toward the Costa del Sol town of San Pedro. Action movie fans may recognize this road from the Thadie Newton and Tom Cruise car chase in Mission: Impossible 2.
Day 4 – Gibraltar
A day-trip to “the Rock” is definitely a clash of cultures. Gibraltar — still a colony of the UK — is a tiny wedge of Britain along the Spanish coast. Space is a premium on Gibraltar, which is accessible by a small causeway from the Spanish mainland. Your best bet is to park in the town of La Linea de la Concepcion, Spain (a.k.a. La Linea) and walk over to Gibraltar. Traffic at the narrow crossing into Gibraltar itself is horrendous, as is parking once you’ve made it in. Crossing into Gibraltar requires walking (or driving) across the airport runway, which is built on landfill between the two countries. Gates, like those at railroad crossings, come down when it’s not safe to cross — that is, when a plane is taking off or landing!
As you come into Gibraltar, keep walking straight ahead and you’ll quickly find yourself on the pedestrianized Main Street, the center of shopping and eating in the territory. The chip shops and red phone booth will instantly erase any doubt that you’re now on British land, as will your need to change your Euros to the Gibraltar Pound (which is equivalent to the British Pound). Gibraltar enjoys some of the lowest taxes and duties in the Mediterranean, so if you’re a shopper, knock yourself out. Of course, the main attraction on Gibraltar is the Rock itself. A cable car takes you up to Top Station on the rock, 353 meter (1155 ft.) above the town. If the cable car is not your speed, you can jump in one of the many minivan services that shuttle visitors to the top via the winding road. The best way to experience all the rock has to offer is to take the cable car to the top and then walk down the road, catching all the sights along the way. From Top Station, you get stunning (and dizzying) views of Gibraltar below as well as clear views to Africa on the other side of the straight. There’s a small restaurant and a gift shop at the Top Station as well. Listen to the interactive multi-media guide that provides visitors with insight into the history of the area at various points along the terraces. You’ll also undoubtedly encounter Gibraltar’s other residents — the Barbary Apes — all along the rock. These animals might be use to humans, but remember that they are wild baboons and should be respected as such. While they make great photos, don’t feed them or try to pet them. Feeding the apes (they are technically macaques) is actually against the law and punishable by a hefty fine.
From the Top Station, take the road downward to St. Michael’s cave — about a 15 minute walk. Visitors can explore this large, natural cave, which is well lit and has guide posts along the way. A large main cavern, called the Cathedral Cave due to the acoustics reminiscent of Europe’s great churches, contains a man-made stage and is often used as a concert and theater venue. Legend has it that St. Michael’s cave is bottomless. The ancient Greeks considered Gibraltar to be one of the Pillars of Hercules — the end of the earth — and the cavern was thought to be the entrance to Hades, the underworld. Further down the road, you’ll come across the Great Siege Tunnels — man-made passages carved into the stone and used as cannon fortifications for defending the Rock. The tunnels got their start when Gibraltar was besieged by the French and Spanish from 1779 to 1783, when the countries sided with the American colonies during their war of independence. By the end of World War II, the tunnels stretched some 30 miles inside the rock. Visitors to the Tunnels can explore the passages and see what life was like for the soldier who called them home. At the entrance of the Tunnels is the famous 100-ton gun, a massive artillery cannon capable of firing eight miles. Also along the road leading off the rock, you’ll find the Moorish Castle. This complex of buildings, gates, and fortified walls is believed to have been the first Moorish fortification in Spain. From here, the Moors launched the Islamic invasion of Spain and Portugal.
Day 5 — Marbella & Estepona / Depart for Granada
The Costa del Sol is dotted with small beach towns and vacation condo complexes ranging from high-end to the everyday. The town of Marbella is more along the high-end side. The waterfront is packed with yachts and restaurants and is a great place to people watch. Inland, the old town has some very cute winding streets that are well worth exploring. The village of San Pedro is a commercial center further south with everything from antique shops to a casino. Even further to the south is the town of Estepona, which is one of the more traditionally Spanish towns in this area that is otherwise inundated with British vacationers. The town has managed to retain its traditional charm, filled with street cafes and tapas bars that serve traditional Spanish fair. The narrow, cobblestone streets host shops and bodegas that sell everything you could imagine, but at non-tourist prices.
Later in the afternoon, consider packing an overnight bag and set out for Granada, where you’ll find the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Alhambra. Granada is a 2-hour drive from the Marbella area, so plan accordingly. We highly recommend getting reservations at the Hotel Guadalupe, which is directly across the street from the entrance to the Alhambra and offers a great view of the main city below. It’s a 10-15 minute walk down the hill into town, where you can find a whole host of bars for a drink and some tapas. Tapas originated in Grenada, and the bars in town provide some very generous portions.
Day 6 — Granada / Return to Costa Del Sol
If you only have one day in Granada, you’ll spend it all at the Alhambra. One of the most-visited buildings in the world, this sprawling palace was the home of Moorish kings until the dual Spanish Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella reconquered the city and made it their own palace. The architecture and gardens are stunning and the complex rivals any of the world’s great palaces. It is easy to spend the entire day at the Alhambra without getting bored.
Day 7 — Tarifa, Baelo Claudia, Cadiz, and on to Sevilla
After packing up and checking out of your apartment or hotel on the Costa del Sol it’s time to head to the western side of Andalucía. Drive back toward Gibraltar along the A-7. Bypass the turn-off for Gibraltar (at the town of San Roque) and continue toward Algeciras. Beyond Algeciras, take the E-5/N-340 toward Cadiz. It’s another 30 minutes or so to the beach town of Tarifa. Situated at the southern-most tip of Spain along the Straits of Gibraltar, the area is world-renown as a windsurfer’s paradise. While there are lots of beaches, the winds tend to blow the sand around too much to make sunbathing enjoyable, but it’s a good place for taking a whale and dolphin watching cruises. The town itself has some points of interest including the remains of the ancient city wall and the 10th-century fortress Castillo de Guzmán el Bueno overlooking the harbor. Tarifa is also one of the places you can grab a ferry to Africa. It’s only a 35-minute trip to city of Tangiers, Morocco.
About 15 minutes past Tarifa (just past the village of Las Pinas) is the turn off toward the ruins of the ancient Roman town of Baelo Claudia, some of the best preserved on the Iberian Peninsula. The site sits directly along the beach making for some fantastic views and photos of the seaside ruins. Baelo Claudia reached its height about 2000 years ago during the reign of Emperor Claudius and was believed to be a major supplier of garum, a fermented fish relish the Roman’s considered a delicacy. The remains of large stone vats believed to store the garum are still visible. There are also an amphitheater, temples, the footprints of houses and other buildings, and a well preserved Roman road cutting through the town. The entire site can be visited in less than two hours, but if you’re into archeology and history, it’s a must see.
From Baelo Claudio, it’s another 1 hour and 20 minutes to Cadiz along the E-5. Along the way, if you’re looking for a stop-off, the village of Vejer de la Frontera is the southern-most of the pueblos blancos. Perched on a hilltop overlooking the Atlantic, the town has a small castle, or alcazaba. Simply strolling around the quiet backstreets along cobbled lanes sandwiched between tall white houses will make this charming town worth a visit.
On our trip, due to time, we decided to bypass Cadiz and head straight to Sevilla. If you’ve got the time, however, Cadiz is worth an afternoon if not a few days. This sea-side city reportedly has some great beaches. In the city itself, there are plenty of sites to see. The most obvious attraction is the eye-catching 18th century Cathedral with its Moorish-inspired golden dome. Inside the church houses a collection of priceless religious relics along with gold, silver, and artifacts brought from the New World following Columbus’ voyages. The Fine Arts and Archaeology Museum details the Phoenician, Greek, and Roman history of the area as well as some works by the artists Rubens and Francisco de Zurbaran. Works by the Spanish master Francisco Goya (considered by many as the father of Modern Art) can be seen at the church of Oratorio de Santa Cruz. The Torre Tavira, an 18th century watch towers that guarded the city’s harbor, offers spectacular views of the city.
Days 8 & 9 — Sevilla
Many people say that Sevilla is the best city in Spain, and I can’t really argue with them. It’s easy to spend several days exploring the city at your own pace. Central Sevilla is a maze of winding streets and narrow lanes packet with cafés, bars, and restaurants. It is very much a city where food and drink take center stage. Sevilla is dotted with small, quaint public squares which gives the city an intimate feel. The River Guadalquivir lies on the western side of the city center and is flanked by a scenic walk perfect for leisurely strolls. The Torre del Oro (Tower of Gold), a stunning 13th-century watchtower constructed to guard the river port, is one of the riverfront highlights. There are also scenic boat trips that leave from the docks near the tower.
Dominating Sevilla’s central district is the city’s Cathedral, the largest Gothic-style cathedral in the world and the third largest Cathedral of any style. The altar piece is a huge wood-carved masterpiece depicting scenes from the life of Jesus and the knave is lavishly decorated. There’s also a tomb purported to be the burial place of Christopher Columbus, though there is some dispute about this. Visitors can climb to the top of the Giralda tower, the Cathedral’s bell tower, for stunning and dramatic views of the city. The tower was the minaret of the original mosque that stood on the site and was incorporated into the cathedral when the Catholics took control of the city. There’s no elevator in the tower, but more surprisingly, no stairs. Instead, there is a series of ramps winding their way to the top that are wide enough to allow two guards on horseback to pass. The climb is not grueling, but it is a bit time-consuming.
Sevilla is certainly one of Spain’s most Instagram-worthy cities. For dramatically colorful tiles and mosaics, check out the Plaza de España, a large park complex and semicircular plaza that formed the centerpiece at the city’s 1929 World Exposition. If you are Game of Thrones fan, don’t miss the the Spanish Royal family’s residence in Sevilla, the Alcazar. Originally a Moorish fort, this palace is the scene of the Dornish Water Gardens in the hit HBO series. The palace is open to the public and is another wonderful example of the gorgeous and intricate tile work and architecture that makes this part of the world so intriguing.
Finally, the city’s bull ring, the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, is one of the finest bull rings in the world. When there’s no “performance” going on, you can take tours of the ring and the bullfighting museum. The museum explains the history of the sport and the tour provides you access not only to the dramatic coliseum-like ring, but to the chapel where matadors pray prior to facing bulls and the infirmary they may be treated in if they don’t come out on top.
Day 10 — Sevilla and the drive back to the Costa Del Sol
Today you near the end of the trip. You can opt to fly directly home from Sevilla or head east, back toward Malaga for your return flight home. Just south of Malaga, there are several beach towns with lots of hotel options. Terremolinos, Feuginrola, and the coastline in between are just minutes from Malaga and about two and a half hours from Sevilla (take the A92 east to the A7 south). Use your last day to lounge on the beach, do some shopping, hit the casino, or wonder the small seaside communities.before saying "Adios, España!"